The Grifters 1990 + Wren FW 2015
Skin tight dresses, L.A. nostalgia, lots of leopard prints, Wren caught The Grifters’ spirit all right.
This movie’s costume design has a certain timelessness about it, but enough of 90s spirit and L.A. vibe to keep Melissa Coker inspired, her collections for Wren are always hungry for it.
She was specially interested in Annette Benning’s wardrobe, always tight and super sexy. There’s even a wink to her style in the brand’s campaign video, with a cute girl driving with a scarf on her head and cat eye sunnies. Myra -Benning’s character- goes for this look twice while on car, first on the back seat, later on the wheel.
Costume designer for The Grifters was Richard Hornung, he passed away in 1995, but his assistant Mark Bridges -Oscar winner for The Artist, nominated this year for Inherent Vice– said that there were a lot of film noir references in his bosses mood board: “(…) During the preparation period director Stephen Frears had a list of films to watch, noir classics like The Maltese Falcon, (1941, directed by Angelica Huston’s father), Detour (1945), Double Indemnity (1944), The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946), and more. I believe the idea was to get the DNA of noir without doing specific period and the costume choices followed that idea. No choices were ever arbitrary for Richard; everything had a reason for drama, concept and character‘.
‘I think it all comes back to the trying to visually reference the noir look and still make it 1990. Lily’s white suit was Thierry Mugler’s 40‘s-90’s noir shape. I remember once in fitting a reference to Lana Turner in “The Postman Always Rings Twice” and how spectacular that was – all in white with platinum hair. Lily’s suit and dress shapes echo the silhouettes of the past yet are recognizable and comfortable to the modern eye. All noir guys wear suits and ties. And that concept reveals itself in dressing Roy in Armani suits and ties and clothes that reference an earlier era in a modern Los Angeles of tank tops, Hawaiian shirts and shorts and sneakers.’
Benning was supposed to be the character closer to the 90s, as far as costumes were concerned, Bridges will say later on. Unlike Huston, she had no problem showing a little skin -like the Wren models in FW 2015- and finding a couple of gigs wearing no clothes at all, does that count as costume design?
There’s a lot more from this great interview in this article from Clothes on Film, make sure you check it out! >>> http://bit.ly/1JxbUXB