The Grand Budapest Hotel 2014 + Gucci SS 2016
This is Alessandro Michele’s second female collection as Gucci’s creative director, and nobody can get enough of his Wes Anderson looks.
What makes this period of Michele’s work at Gucci so great, is not only his references, but his bravery on taking such a strong stand on where the brand should be. That is in the hands of some quirky, pseudo intellectual girl, who’s in love with books, expensive clothes and Wes Anderson movies.
His latest collection for the Italian house was actually inspired by Madeleine de Scudéry’s La Carte de Tendre, a 17th century map created by several authors for Madeleine de Scudéry’s novel Clélie, 1654, which was supposed to show the road towards love in an imaginary land called Tendre. This map was available to attendees on top of their chairs, and showed up as the print on a sheer midi dress, as told by Vogue Magazine.
This inspiration tried to draw the relationship between geography and maps, and the relationship between thought and emotion.
Now, La Carte de Tendre might have been the inspiration for this show in particular, but there is no doubt that Anderson’s oeuvre is an important reference for Michele. Margot Tenenbaum, Max Fischer from Rushmore, color palettes from Castello Cavalcanti and Hotel Chevalier, the retro/nostalgic game where the 70s look so much better now, it was all there. Just like we saw it on his previous collection. And the one before that.
Since there is no specific film in this case, I chose the looks that reminded me the most to some Anderson movies:
Michele’s infatuation with Anderson makes perfect sense, not only is he on trend, he was born in the 70s and his mother used to work at CineCitta. Maybe he didn’t know it, but he was born to do this.